Vientiane
Vientiane is the capital of Laos, and this tells you the whole story. As the capital, it has all the banks, business centres, major shops, the country’s major sights, and nightlife too – even though none of this is really typical of Laos as a whole. But, it’s the capital, even so.
The city lies on the bank of the Mekong River, facing the opposite bank which is the territory of Thailand. It’s a city which has served as capital of both the Lan Xang and Vientiane kingdoms – but has also known times when it lay abandoned and overgrown by jungle. Vientiane owes its present-day layout and broad European-style boulevards to Laos’s period under French colonisation, from the late-C19th. However, the city’s most noticeable development has occurred since the mid-C20th
The Patuxai War Memorial was erected in 1968. The name means “The Gates of Victory” and it commemorates the heroes who fell in the struggle for the country’s independence. In many ways the memorial resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.
The War Memorial bears inscriptions of Laotian and Buddhist symbolism.
It’s nice to take a walk, or a souvenir photograph in this spacious square.
This four-sided stupa is known as the That Luang Stupa, and is one of Laos’s most revered national symbols – its appearance frequently represents the nation. That Luang was built in the mid-C16th, after the role of capital passed from Luang Phabang to Vientiane at the behest of King Setthathilat. You can see the king’s monument in front of the stupa’s entrance.
There’s a large square in front of the That Luang Stupa, which is used for national holidays and ceremonies. Next to it is the governmental building of the National Assembly, along with several shrines.
The square in front of the that Luang stupa and the monument to the King Setthathilat.
Wat Phra Kaew temple The Pha Kaew temple was built in 1565, and it was here that the King bowed reverentially to the Buddha. This is hardly surprising, since the temple was especially built to house the Emerald Buddha statue – which was brought to Laos from Northern Thailand in 1551. And here the statue remained at Phra Kaew until 1778, when it was captured by Thai marauders and carried off to Bangkok – where it remains today, at another temple also named Phra Kaew – “the Temple of the Emerald Buddha”.
The buildings of the Phra Kaew temple are currently used to house a Museum of Buddhist Art.
The Sisaket Temple (1818) was built in the Siamese style. The gallery which surrounds the temple has several thousand Buddha statues, made from different materials. Many of these statues bear marks of damage which occurred during military attacks on Vientiane.
Drum tower
Some statues were badly damaged during the military raids on Vientiane.
The Wat Si Muang
Wat Si Muang was built in 1563. Legend claims that a woman voluntarily gave herself up for sacrifice during the founding of the temple – her spirit is said to wander the temple, and can be asked for assistance or happiness. Si Muang is divided into two areas. In the first of these monks offer blessings – while in the second there is an altar with an image of Buddha.. although the central space is given over to an image of a phallus. This is a unique kind of Laotian syncretism – a mixture of Hinduism and Buddhism.
Buddha image under the sacred tree.
The building of the old Presidential Palace
The elegant building of the old Presidential Palace was designed by Laotian architect Khamphung Phonekeo. Building began during the period of French colonisation, but was completed only in 1986. It was conceived as the Royal Palace, but with the dissolution of the monarchy it became used for the official events of Laos’s President.
This statue of King Sisavanvong is the work of Soviet-era sculptor Merab Berdzenishvili, and was cast in Leningrad, USSR, in 1975. Another copy of the statue stands in the city of Luang Phabang.
The Lao National Museum
Although it’s comparatively small, the Lao National Museum has many exhibits about the country’s rich history on display. There’s everything since the time dinosaurs walked the earth – literally – as well as archaeological finds, works of art, displays about ethnic and religious traditions, Laos’s struggle for independence, and life in the country today. It seems there’s enough material in each display to fill a separate book.
It’s pleasant to see how positively Laotian people welcome Russians. This is very probably because many highly-educated Laotians had their university education in Russia – and more especially, in the USSR. In Vientiane there are still many people who speak Russian well, and understand it even better.
City street-signs act like a barometer of foreign influences.
The Russian Centre of Science and Cultur
The Russian Centre of Science and Culture opened in Vientiane in 2013. The centre building had been there earlier, but wasn’t operational. In order to bolster cultural contact between the two countries, there are Russian language courses and cultural events that include concerts and exhibitions. There’s also a Russian-language library. The Russian Centre of Science & Culture offers direct online access to the Russian Presidential Library.
Ludmila Kuntysh, the Director of the Russian Centre of Science & Culture, has a deep understanding of Laos.
Most shopping in the capital is done at the markets – which are in fact located within multistorey buildings, although some market trade still goes on in the streets too.
The biggest event of the year for handicraft items is the LAO HANDICRAFT FESTIVAL – an annual festival of hand-made goods which runs in Vientiane every November. The event brings together the best craftsmen from all over the country. Every kind of craft is represented – textiles, jewelery, and so on – and of course there’s food and rice-wine too. The street displays are particularly interesting – furniture made from costly hardwoods, and carved wooden panels.
Vientiane is like most Asiatic cities – residential housing, offices, banks, markets and shops are all mixed-up together. Tourists wander around the central streets during the daytime – and then by evening they like to stroll along the Mekong embankments, where impromptu markets pop up.
There’s a surprising amount of nightlife in Vientiane. Some people enjoy an evening at a restaurant, with traditional Laotian music and dancing. There’s white-cover service, and accomplished waiters can serve you a delightful choice of native Laotian cuisine. Guests enjoy the music, the smiles, and the performances of the dancers. It can be hard to get a table sometimes.
The Mekong Embankment is the hub of Vientiane’s nightlife. A stroll here reminded me of the Promenade des Anglais in Nice – you find people enjoying a little sports training in the open air – with up to one hundred people doing synchronised exercises, with an instructor and some music. Sport’s very popular in Laos – there are fitness centres and bowling clubs in Vientiane.
Vientiane has many music venues and nightclubs, some of which are hard to find among the myriad restaurants, massage parlours and shops - unless you have a guide or a guidebook. The scene is constantly changing as clubs open and close, or change ownership – so up-to-date information is vital.
The set-up of the Blues Club isn’t different in any way to similar clubs in London or Moscow – there’s muted lighting, and people traditionally drink beer. Most of the audience are locals. On a Saturday night there will usually be three bands – and the standard of playing is great.
There a music clubs in Vientiane catering for youth culture too – the music’s loud, there’s live rock on stage, and room to dance too.
If Laos’s ancient traditions are preserved at Luang Phabang, then Vientiane displays the contemporary business and cultural scene in Laos today. Many international events are held regularly at the National Cultural Centre here.
